What is bonded "leather"? It is really a sustainable alternative?

Assuming that the correct expression for commonly called bonded/reconstructed or mixed "leather" is "bonded regenerate of leather fibers" (as per Article 2, Paragraph 1(d) of Legislative Decree No. 68/2020) this type of material is an artificial, almost synthetic product created primarily to emulate the appearance of genuine leather. 

It is composed of a mixture of tanned leather cuttings, reduced to fibers and combined with bindings agents such as latex, polyurethane or other synthetic aggregants. This mixture is applied to a substrate (usually a fabric or synthetic fiber sheet) and processed until a smooth, uniform surface is achieved. Depending on the final product to be obtained, it can vary in thickness and strength to better meet the needs of use. It then undergoes various finishing steps such as calendering, grinding, painting, and embossing. The goal of this finishing process is to achieve an effect as similar as possible to natural leather, although the physical characteristics and overall quality of the product are significantly different.

In what industries is bonded “leather” used?
Bonded “leather” is being used increasingly in the fashion, furniture and automotive industries as a more affordable alternative to natural leather.

What are the pros and cons of bonded  “leather” compared to genuine leather?
From an aesthetic point of view, bonded “leather” traces the appearance of genuine leather very well and looks like a uniform alternative, free of defects and natural marks. Another limitation to take into account is that it is a material that is not very breathable: real leather allows, albeit minimally, the passage of air and moisture; bonded leather, because of the different materials of which it is largely composed, is practically impermeable and not breathable. The main reason it is chosen is that this alternative is considerably cheaper than genuine leather, and from an industrial point of view, moreover, it is produced in rolls, even large ones, better meeting cuttability criteria.

In terms of sustainability, can bonded “leather” be compared to genuine leather?
Genuine leather, although derived from animals, is considered an example of circular economy. In this sense, a by-product of the food chain is ennobled, preventing animal hides from becoming mere waste for disposal. Regenerated “leather,” on the other hand, starts by recycling leather scraps and in a sense reduces waste; however, it cannot be considered an equally sustainable choice. During the production process, in fact, plastic and synthetic products are used, the end result of which is anything but environmentally friendly. Moreover, reclaimed “leather” has a tendency to flake and crack more easily, making it almost useless to repair and thus reuse.

Although at first glance it may seem like a sustainable choice, the environmental impact seems to be higher than that of genuine leather. This is compounded by the fact that while there are several rapidly developing technologies for end-of-life recovery for genuine leather, this is not the case for bonded “leather.” For example, from natural leather it is possible to recover the protein component for reuse in agronomy, extract chemical components for reuse in the production process of genuine leather, or produce additional regenerated materials. These processes can make genuine leather a more sustainable resource in the long term.